Victory in the Baja Foreign Legion
A Picaresque Cycling Tale
A race in Baja California called to me, and I answered, for racing in Mexico is guaranteed to be entertaining.
We registered north of Ensenada where the old, free road diverges from the coastal toll road for a climb up to El Tigre, a plateau at about 1200 feet. That was to be the rolling terrain for our race.
The promoter, Chepe Garcia, was there as promised at 9:00 a.m. for registration or inscripciones. Fog brought cool, 64 degree air from the ocean. My desert colleagues shivered in their t-shirts and shorts. Some people actually wore undershirts against the cold. Come on, dudes, don’t you know that this will burn away shortly, and even quicker higher up and inland?
My category, 50+, would race only one way, from “out” to “back,” so I needed a way to get to the starting line. I spied a likely-looking veterano standing next to a car with an empty slot in a rooftop rack. “Can you give me a ride?” I called out to him without introduction. He nodded his head. I exchanged pleasantries with his other car mates, then went over to him.
“Nacho, Ignacio, Macho, Nacho Camacho, Nacho Libre—whatever you like,” he said. A thin guy with a gap-toothed smile, he was a lean cyclist and a happy fellow.
“Seriously, can you give me a ride?” I asked. “I don’t have any way to get to the starting line."
“Sure,” he said. “We can put your bike on the back.” The car, a well used, black Japanese compact had a trunk rack as well.
Chepe was cajoling everyone to get moving, so I quickly changed and rolled my bike over. Five of us crammed into the small car. I was introduced to Juan, Paulo, and Enrique. Nacho drove.
Immediately began a banter, headed up by Paulo, that kept the laughs steady. Though my Spanish is good, I can’t follow the double entendres and allusions that make up the heart of jokes. But I got into the spirit of the claims about how much booze Paulo had drunk the night before, Nacho’s recent sexual exploits, and the eye color of a certain mamasita. Paulo felt it proper to challenge everybody’s sexual orientation on the route to the starting line.
The repartee wasn’t interrupted when Paulo requested a bathroom stop. Nacho flipped down his visor and handed over a good supply of toilet paper. Enrique, Paulo’s yerno or son-in-law helped himself to more tissue in the glove box. I picked my spot at a large bush of unknown name whose upper leaves were blackened by the summer heat.
As I felt one leaf’s rough, dry surface, I wondered how much of my hosts’ behavior was for my benefit, remembering the axiom that every observer changes the event being observed.
The ground of this convenient pullout spot was densely strewn with plastic bottles, bags, cups, and other debris of a thousand road trips. A crude sort of harmony was created by five simultaneous streams of urine from five different bushes. When Paulo walked back, Nacho called out, “He couldn’t go because he needs a bidet to wash his ass."
We headed further north and descended the plateau into the canyon toward the sea. Nacho started to pull off the road in a small community where he spied a cyclist parked at an abbarrotes or grocery store. “Not here,” called Paulo. “Keep going.”
“It’s at the bridge, or under the bridge,” I offered, remembering Chepe’s remarks.
Just before the bridge sat a van full of conocidos (acquaintances). We pulled off there, but they shouted, “It’s back at the top, not here. We’re just waiting for others to tell them.”
We headed back uphill. So much for a 60 km race. The stretch of old highway from coast uphill and back down to coast couldn’t have been more than 25 miles, I figured. So my race would end up being 20 miles, not 38. And much of the climbing would be eliminated.
Our new starting line began at the base of a gentle uphill stretch. We five were the first to arrive, but little by little the younger kids, rookies, and women riders congregated. Some warmed up on trainers; others rolled along the road. The fog had lifted; the sun shone through a pale sky, blowing an ocean breeze from the northwest. The primera fuerza or elite riders passed us heading north, followed by segunda fuerza. I cheered Edgar Alarcon in 3rd place in the elite, and then Benjamin in segunda. We had to wait until they made their turnaround at the bottom and passed us once again before we could start.
Time to race. Only six veterano racers nervously approached the line. The four of us from the car plus Juan and Waldo from Mexicali.
We clipped in and rolled calmly for the first couple hundred meters. Then one of the Valle Congelado boys (all three of my companions were on the same team) hit the gas. In a few pedal strokes, I was anaerobic and laboring, but not falling behind. We crested the rise and accelerated, the four of us taking turns. In just a few minutes, we overtook a few of the tercera or rookie riders and then a couple of the women. Two young guys hung on for a while then dropped back.
A couple more hills later, I took a turn climbing, turned around and saw only Juan behind me. Nacho and Paulo had dropped back. I was redlining, but flying on adrenaline and caffeine.
Would Juan now take turns with me to leave his compañeros behind? No. He stayed on my wheel and wouldn’t come around. I sat up and let Paulo and Nacho back, as I didn’t think I could tow Juan all the way to the end without Paulo and Nacho attacking and passing me on the downhill.
Back in formation, I launched another attack, but there was Juan again. I looked at my heart rate monitor: 180. My God! I haven’t seen 180 for a year or two. Luckily the pace dropped, and then came the downhill. I was worried that my Mexican trio would blast by me, as I’m not a daring descender. By now, a girl and boy had attached themselves to us. Lucky for me, we mostly coasted downhill. I tried another attack. No luck. Nacho attacked. I was on his wheel. Why didn’t they gang up on me? I wondered. If one of them were willing to sacrifice himself, he could attack me and force me to chase. The other two could easily latch onto my wheel, and as I fatigued, come around me together. I would be dead meat, and the other two would be gone. That is a textbook tactic—one they hadn’t considered, obviously.
For once in a Mexican road race, I knew where the finish line was and had scouted where I would be able to sprint full bore. It was just after a bridge where the road veered right. I had noticed a pullout on the uphill side and another road sign marking the upcoming curve to the left. We were now flying downhill past the bridge in echelon to protect ourselves from the crosswind coming from the sea. Nacho was to my right. I rode about five feet to the right of the center line. Juan and Paulo were to my left behind.
Suddenly an oncoming sedan swept toward us. Trouble was, it was over the center line. We all cried out. I swerved sharply to the right. I just knew I was going to hear the awful sound of a head-on collision. It was impossible that my new friends and competitors could avoid the front bumper of that car. But somehow our group split, and Juan and Pablo avoided certain death by passing the oncoming car on the left. All this happened in milliseconds. No time for fear; it was already over, and the sprint was looming. No time to reflect on the miracle of our salvation.
Together again, we passed the sprint marker. All of us were standing up. I was boxed in. “Shit,” I yelled, as I stopped pedaling to prevent myself from ramming into Paulo. Then Juan accelerated to Paulo’s left, and I followed Juan’s wheel. Now was the time. I gripped the drop bars, stood up, lowered my head and cranked for all I was worth.
My legs felt like they were moving in slow motion, but I had no doubt that I was at my limit. I had nothing left. As I passed the finish line, I noticed Chepe glancing up disinterestedly. Beyond a couple of cars, my teammate Edgar Alarcon was talking to someone next to his pickup. A few other cyclists and their friends milled about a haphazard collection of cars on both sides of the road. Someone had a checkered flag in hand, but it drooped and dragged on the dirt alongside the pavement.
No hurrahs, no bell, no clapping. But I won, and by a fine margin. I looked down at my heart monitor. 186. That scared the crap out of me. I coasted for some meters with Juan just behind. Without any gesture, he made his U-turn back toward our follow car. Nacho and Paulo had already turned. Trying to catch my breath, I coasted for another 100 meters, slowed and turned back.
Where was the manly sportsmanship from the races I’d won before on the track in Mexicali? Nobody paused to call out, bien hecho, well-done. None of my fearsome threesome opposition made any effort to acknowledge my hard-won victory. I coasted back to the car. They were all putting their bikes and gear away in silence at the back of the car. Heads were turned away. Some muffled conversation among themselves ensued. I leaned my bike against the front fender of Nacho’s car. No need to remove any of my equipment, for I was going to ride back to my car—just three hundred meters more down hill where the old road merged into the coastal freeway. I was getting the major freeze from my formerly warm and jovial car-mates.
Edgar came over. “How did you do?” he asked.
“I won.”
“I got third,” he said, and went into a long outline of his race, most of which I couldn’t understand because he spoke so fast and softly.
Waldo, from our group, finished the race. How did it go? I asked. Well into his sixties, Waldo is known for his love of cycling, not his speed on a bike. “Ah, well I arrived, but I ran out of road. I was just about warmed up by the end.” He smiled.
I went round to the back of the car to collect my sandals out of the trunk. Silence from the three Valle Congelado riders. Still unhappy. It was as if the sun had been eclipsed and the daylight replaced with a deathly darkness. Despair oozed out of them like decay run rampant. Flesh eating bacteria ate instead at their spirit.
Finally, Paulo said, “Ah, well, congratulations. You have a strong sprint.”
“You’re a pretty good climber,” said Juan.
“I’m out of shape,” said Nacho. “I couldn’t stay up with you guys.”
“I was at my limit,” I replied truthfully. In fact, I was surprised by my own performance. I hadn’t seen a heart rate above 172 for a year or two. I was a little stunned by the intensity of my own effort.
The conversation trailed off. Meanwhile, I watched Benjamin come across the line just in front a of a tall, young rider who didn’t seem to have the heart for a full-tilt sprint to the finish. “Did you win?” I asked Ben.
“No, second. There were a lot of attacks.”
Ben, though 58 years old, had raced in segunda fuerza, a category like our Cat 4, reserved for younger guys working their way up to the elite level. He shook his head in disgust. Benjamin takes his cycling very seriously and is a much stronger rider than me.
I waved my goodbyes and headed to my car. We were all supposed to rendezvous at the Parque Revolución at the north end of Ensenada, where a circuit race for the little kids and our awards ceremony would take place.
I must have been the first of the adult racers to arrive at the park, a one block square plaza like those found in every city in Mexico. An elaborate raised band stand stood in the center, topped by a dome supported by columns. The park was a very well kept space, with fine landscaping including topiary bushes, grass, and flowers. An arching wooden bridge crossed a sand playground full of new equipment. It was a wholesome, fair-like urban park scene, filled with several hundred revelers: moms and dads with kids hand in hand. Vendors hawked cotton candy, churros, balloons. Music played from mini-parties in the corners of the parks. Kiosks sold tortas, peanuts, raspados, and other refreshments.
It was a teeming Sunday scene, a far cry from the last time I had been in this same park a decade or two ago when it was a quiet, semi-barren, unloved place.
The kids’ cycling club from Mexicali had set up their instant canopy on the south end of the square. Kids in their club jerseys and bib shorts scampered around their bikes, excitedly anticipating their turn to race. It was about 1:00 in the afternoon. I greeted the kids and complimented them on their dashing uniforms. I recognized many faces, but could remember no names of the parents from Mexicali. One of them set several bags of food on the table, opened it up and offered me a fish taco. I was famished, so I accepted. After his wife addressed him, I was reminded of his name. It was Pedro, a gracious and handsome, dark-complected man that had often raced with me in Mexicali. “Have another one,” he said.
“No, thank you,” I said, waving him off. I knew that he had bought the food for his family and friends. Instead, I bought a bag of peanuts. As I munched, Paulo, Juan, and Nacho approached. “Hey,” I said.
“Hey there, maestro,” said Paulo.
I was struggling to get my peanuts out of the bag and drink a soda that Pedro had given me. Paulo helped by liberating the bag of peanuts and helping himself. I supposed that we were friends again.
“I need a beer,” he said. “Where’s the liquor store?”
I offered peanuts to the others, including a new member of their group, a younger, bigger, more archetypally athletic sort named Omar. We were all cracking shells and downing the peanuts like a village of hungry monkeys. I noticed that nobody threw their shells on the ground. A new sort of Mexico.
“Where was the liquor store?” asked Paulo again.
“Let’s walk this way,” I suggested, and Paulo stepped in next to me. He was back to his jaunty self and began to tell me about the race in August. Turned out the Paulo was the first lieutenant of Mark Helvie, a very strong rider from Ramona. Mark has a reputation from way back as an excellent climber and a perennial contender for the top of the podium in our age bracket. Paulo had worked for him for many years as a carpenter and general craftsman for Mark’s remodeling business. Omar joined us. I found out that Omar was the one who had beat Ben.
“I was really surprised,” Ben had said. “I was taking turns with this other guy. Omar was behind us, like about 75 yards. I thought we had dropped him, but he stayed there for most of the way back south. Then about 6 miles from the line, he came by us. We tried, but even working together well, we couldn’t catch him."
Omar, Paulo, and I found an Oxxo a block away. I bought a 12–pack of Tecate Lager. “Can we drink I public?” I asked Paulo.
“No, we’ll have to sit in the car,” he said.
“We don’t want to have to get you out of jail,” said Juan.
We started our drinking in the car, but quickly found some plastic cups. Juan shook his head when I gestured toward the box of beer.
“He’s a Baptist brother in Christ,” said Paulo. “Doesn’t drink.”
Nacho also waved away my offer. “I’m driving,” he said seriously, his humor having disappeared somewhere about the finish line.
“I needed this,” said Paulo, gesturing into his elbow as if giving himself an injection. “It’s good medicine.”
Benjamin had joined us by this time. “What’s happening, brothers?” he began. “There were three of you and only one of him. Why couldn’t you take him?”
With no reply from the Valle Congelado team, Ben said. “He was stronger last year. You should have seen him on the Rumororsa.”
Paulo said, “Ah, well you guys need to come back on August 25th. There’ll be a lot more riders then, guys from L.A. and San Diego. Maybe Mark Helvie will come.”
“Well I hope he doesn’t come,” said Ben. “He’s too strong. But we have more guys we can bring. Brian, we’ll bring Fred in August. The three of us will show them.”
Right, Ben. Last time I raced Mark Helvie, he and his buddies lapped me. They lapped Fred twice. (To be fair, it was Fred’s first criterium.)
I finished my one beer. No sign of Chepe, and it was approaching two o’clock. No Chepe, no trophies. I had a 3½ hour drive ahead of me. By now Paulo was feeling a lot better. “All right,” he said. “You’re the champion, maestro.” He turned to his two teammates, “What do you think, boys? Did he anesthetize you at the finish line? Had enough?”
I smiled. Friends for life.
“Next time, you’re on our team,” he said.
I put Benjamin in charge of retrieving my trophy and took my leave from Paulo, Omar, Juan, Nacho Camacho, Pedro, and the others waiting on the mysteriously absent Chepe. Turned out that after pushing us to get to the park, he had himself elected to find a place to eat lunch—probably with his take from the entrance fees.
Well, Chepe senior did all right by me. Ben collected my trophy, and it was an impressive one, a large golden cup topped by a plastic bike. The plaque claimed that I had won both a 60km road race and a circuit race—a embellishment befitting the veterano class. I could legitimately claim that as time passed, my achievements had risen. The older I get, the better I was. A trophy is a trophy, and this one is a beautiful keepsake from a happily brief, intense, victorious day. At my age, it doesn’t get any better than this.
bmcneece@adelphia.net">bmcneece@adelphia.net">brian on 09.05.07 @ 11:06 AM PST [link]